Common Orchids Pests : Sap Feeding Insects : Scale

Scale on Orchids

Symptoms:

Scale are sucking insects that attach to and feed on the underside of leaves, in leaf axils, on pseudobulbs and on rhizomes. They often are hidden under old leaves and pseudobulb sheaths. Severe infestations cause chlorotic areas to appear on the leaves and plant surfaces which will yellow and may darken and can cause the leaf to drop prematurely.

Treatment:

If there are only a few scale, use a Q tip dipped in isopropyl alcohol or toothbrush dipped in a pesticide like Malathion, Orthene or Safer Soap (used per label instructions) to physically remove scale. For more severe infestations, apply the pesticide at the crawler stage and repeat the application 2 weeks later. Be sure to spray all plant surfaces, particularly the undersides of leaves and leaf axils. 

Prevention: 
Remove old leaf and flower sheaths to eliminate scale hiding places and allow easy inspection. Check new plants carefully before adding to the growing area.

Popular Home Grow Orchid : Phalaenopsis

MOTH ORCHID is an appropriate common name for the genus Phalaenopsis, bringing to mind night in a distant, tropical jungle, the darkness broken only by a cloud of white flowers fluttering in the warm breeze. Phalaenopsis spesies have distribution from Himalayas of northern India, Tibet and China, down through Southeast Asia and into the island countries of Malaysia, Indonesia and the Philippines. Northern Australia and New Guinea.

Phalaepnosis Amabilis

GENERAL CHARACTERISTIC

All phalaenopsis, whatever their flowering habit, have a number of characteristics in common. While the flower size, color and thickness of segments can vary tremendously, the flower structure of phalaenopsis does not. Unlike Paphiopedilum flowers, where the smaller, lateral sepals fuse to form the ventral sepal which counterbalances the larger, dorsal sepal, the three sepals of a typical Phalaenopsis flower arc nearly identical in size and evenly spread apart, forming a triangle of sorts. The lateral sepals may vary in coloration from the dorsal sepal, as is the case with Phalaenopsis stuartiana. Here the lateral sepals arc spotted heavily in brown while the dorsal sepal is only lightly speckled in pink at the base. The two petals of any Phalaenopsis flower, on either side of the dorsal sepal, can be larger or about the same size as the sepals, often "filling in" the space between the lateral sepals and dorsal sepal.

Though largely unappreciated, the Phalaenopsis lip or labellum is the most complex segment of the flower. Positioned between the two lateral sepals, the Phalaenopsis lip has three sections, or lobes. The two side-lobes are usually raised at an angle to the central or front lobe. The front-lobe, typically to some degree spade-shaped, juts forward or somewhat downward. Phalaenopsis stuartiana has a front-lobe with two tail-like appendages called cirrhi, a characteristic for its section of the genus though not for all Phalaenopsis species. At the junction of the three lobes of a Phalaenopsis lip is a raised area called the lip-callus. It appears just below the nose-like protuberance which is the column, the fusion of male and female parts, in the center of a Phalaenopsis flower.

Phalaenopsis have a distinctive appearance. They are monopodial orchids with vegetation produced indefinitely from a single, apical growing point. This is in contrast to paphiopedilums, which arc sympodial and produce new growths from the base of the previously flowered growth. In theory phalaenopsis would continue to grow taller, year after year. Just the same, only rarely does one sec a phalaenopsis in cultivation much over 30 cm (1 foot) tall. The lowermost leaves tend to die after several years, and the plants are then often "topped", with the upper, leaved portion repotted in new mix. Like paphs, phalaenopsis form "fans" or "rosettes", with closely clustered leaves which emerge from the terminal growing point . These leaves are longer than they are wide, in cultivation usually between 20 and 30 cm (8-12 inches) long on mature plants, though the leaves of Phalaenopsis gigantea, for example, live up to their name, being up to 45 cm (1.5 feet) long in the wild. Like paphiopedilums, some phalaenopsis, such as Phalaenopsis stuartiana and Phalaenopsis schilleriana have attractive, mottled leaves, while Phalaenopsis amabilis displays solid green leaves. Even without mottling, Phalaenopsis leaves on a healthy plant present a glossy, pleasing appearance. Phalaenopsis roots, unlike those of paphiopedilums, often seek the open air and ramble out-of-pot. Their growing tips are greenish or reddish-brown, though away from the tip they are often whitish, even slivery in appearance when healthy. The inflorescences of phalaenopsis emerge successively along the stem between the axils of the leaves.

ORCHID'S BASIC CARE

An American Orchid Society demographic survey showed that phalaenopsis have become America’s favorite orchid. And no wonder. Perhaps no other orchid is better suited to home orchid growing. Plants with long-lasting sprays of lovely mothlike blooms in a broad array of colors are inexpensive and widely available, ready to give weeks of pleasure in your home or office. Simply provide modest light and  consistent moisture, and they will delight you with their relative ease of culture. The main flowering season is late winter into spring, though commercial growers today can make flowering phalaenopsis available year round.

LIGHT

Sufficient light is important for healthy growth and flower production. Provide bright light, no direct sun. In the home, an east, west or shaded south window. In a greenhouse, about 30 percent full sun. Under lights, four 40 watt fluorescent tubes and two 40 watt incandescent bulbs directly over plants. Foliage should be naturally semierect, and of a medium olive-green. Dark green, limp foliage indicates too little light.

TEMPERATURE

Mature plants need a 15 to 20 F difference between night and day. Provide nights of 60 to 65 F; days of 75 to 85 F. Seedlings need temperatures five to 10 degrees higher than mature plants.

WATER

Mature plants should seldom dry out between waterings. Seedlings need more constant attention to moisture.

HUMIDITY

Phalaenopsis need 60 to 70 percent humidity. In the home, place on trays of moistened pebbles. In greenhouse, use a humidifier if conditions are too dry.

FERTILIZER

Must be provided on a regular basis because most potting media have little. Provide the exact fertilizer you use will depend on the mix in which your plant is growing. A good general rule is to use a balanced (10-10-10, 12-12-12 or similar ratio) fertilizer “weakly, weekly.” That is, fertilize every week at one quarter to one half of the recommended dilution.

POTTING

Should be done every one to two years before the mix breaks down too far. Best done in late spring after main flowering season, using a well-drained but water-retentive mix. Select pot size for root mass, not top size.

Types Of Hydrangea : Climbing Hydrangea

Decumaria barbara

Climbing Hydrangeas included in this group are Decumaria barbara, Hydrangea anomola subsp. petiolaris and Schizophrama hydrangeioides. These are all vines which climb using aerial roots to attach to the outer surface of walls, rocks, tree trunks or wooden structures like pergolas. Unlike English Ivy they rarely become a problem on trees. Climbing hydrangeas only bloom on vertical stems – vines growing on the ground will not bloom. Minimal pruning is required. They bear lacecap inflorescences with an outer ring of showy white sterile florets around creamy to yellow fertile flowers in late spring. Deadheading can be done right after flowering to save energy and for aesthetics by cutting the inflorescences off above the first leaf. Branches that extend out far from the climbing surface may also be pruned back in summer after flowering to prevent the plants from being pulled from their structures by heavy winds, ice or snow. Climbing hydrangea vines will grow well throughout Virginia in moist shady sites. In cooler parts of the State they can take more sun as long as they receive adequate moisture during the summer. after flowering to prevent the plants from being pulled off by heavy winds, ice or snow loads.

Decumaria

Decumaria barbara

Woodvamp (Decumaria) is a genus of two species of flowering plants in the family Hydrangeaceae, one (D. barbara) native to the southeastern United States, and the other (D. sinensis) native to central China.
They are shrubby lianas growing to 4-10 m high through shrubs and trees, climbing by means of aerial adhesive rootlets. The leaves are variably deciduous to evergreen (with D. barbara tending to be more often deciduous, D. sinensis more evergreen), 3-10 cm long, ovate with an acute apex, and a smooth to obscurely toothed margin. The flowers are 5-10 mm diameter, white to creamy colored, fragrant, produced in dense panicles 3-8 cm broad. The fruit is a dry capsule containing several seeds.

Decumaria sinensis

Hydrangea : Basic Care

Hydrangea macrophylla is a species of flowering plant in the family Hydrangeaceae, native to China and Japan. It is a deciduous shrub growing to 2 m (7 ft) tall by 2.5 m (8 ft) broad with large heads of pink or blue flowers in summer and autumn. Common names include big leaf hydrangea, French hydrangea, lacecap hydrangea, mophead hydrangea, penny mac and hortensia. It is widely cultivated in many parts of the world in many climates. It is not to be confused with H. aspera 'Macrophylla'.

Hydrangea

At a minimum, hydrangeas must be given weekly water. In hot summer months, their leaves quickly show signs of heat stress, but are easily revived with cooler temperatures or by misting their leaves. Hydrangeas usually do best in filtered shade, protected from hot southwest exposure, although they may grow luxuriously given full sun in cool, foggy coastal areas. In the winter, when the plants have dropped their leaves for dormancy, we prune hydrangeas for size control. Stems are pruned back to buds on strong growth, leaving stems about four feet tall; they can be pruned lower if there is a need for a more compact size, but they will produce fewer blooms the next season. Any dead or weak growth and old canes should be removed entirely, down to the plant’s crown, to encourage the renewal of strong new flowering stems. Be aware that hard renovation pruning can remove the next season’s flower buds, which form the year before. If buds are not removed, hydrangeas will bloom from July to November, on the ends of new growth. Regular fertilization can greatly enhance the summer display; Filoli gardeners apply a general fertilizer, such as 10-10-10, in the fall to encourage root growth, and in the spring when the plants break dormancy.

Hydrangea

Color Play

The color of hydrangea blossoms, which varies from white to pink, blue, and chartreuse, can be changed or enhanced by applying amendments that alter soil pH. Blue flowers are the product of acid soil in the range of 5.2-5.5; in November, 1/4 - 1/2 lb of aluminum sulfate around the base of large plants, and lightly cultivate it into the organic mulch at the base of each plant. Be aware that if aluminum sulfate is applied to white or pink hydrangeas, it will turn pink hydrangeas blue but have no effect on white blooms.

Dried Flowers

Another wonder of hydrangea blossoms is how beautifully they dry; people remove some choice blooms in late summer, into early fall, when the tiny, inconspicuous flowers are fully open and their texture changes from succulent to leathery. If they are too soft with moisture, the heads don’t hold their shape and color.

For drying, leaves are removed and flowers are left upright—or hung upside down for weak stems—in a warm, dry room. Once they are completely dry, they make colorful additions to arrangements later in the year when other flower selections are slim. During the winter holidays, people often use them to make wreaths and for decorating garlands and trees. Fresh flowers are also picked in season, conditioned in warm water and used in fresh arrangements throughout the house.

Reference : Hydrangea Care

Kalanchoe Blossfeldiana : Basic Care

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana is one of the prettiest and famous representatives of the succulents family. Although it is easily cultivated all over the world, it originates from Magadascar while some creeping varieties were found the rain forests of Brazil and Southeast Asia. The name kalanchoe came from a Chinese word but it is still unknown how and when it was given to the plant.

 

Kalanchoe blossfeldiana

 

The original colors of the kalachoe were orange and red. It grew rather tall and was not too much adapted as a potted plant for the consumer. The big breakthrough was about 1980 when Danish and Dutch growers managed to create the current plant, a variety with compact shape, rich foliage, sturdy stems and plenty of flowers. Plant breeders developed a variety of colors: yellow, orange, pink, purple, white and just recently bi-colored varieties.

The plant is very popular with consumers because of its long lasting flowers and attractive foliage It normally blooms during the short days of winters and has become a popular plant from late fall to late winter. Kalanchoe's leaves are fleshy, wide, oval-shaped, with indented edges, appear in turn throughout the stems, are very tender and break easily.

Care

Kalanchoes are easy to grow, need warm temperatures and minimum care. In our moderate climate it can be as easily grown indoors and outdoors but only in pots and not in the ground. Temperatures between 60 F and 85 F are ideal for development and blooming of the plant. Kalanchoe is very sensitive to cold and it takes only a few hours of near 40 F for the plant to die. Avoid placing it near drafts or cool windowsills.

Their root system is extremely sensitive and it would be advisable to use clay pots that allow better aeration of the roots. Ensure excellent drainage by placing pebbles at the bottom of the pot and use light soil containing lots of peat moss, perlite and sand. Always empty excess water from the tray and never let your pot stand in water.

Kalanchoe plants love to be alone in small pots. However, the larger the pot the larger the leaves but the size of the top will hardly affect blooming or rate of growth. Avoid planting companion plants in the same pot with kalanchoes and repot each spring adding fresh soil. Kalanchoes grow rather slowly, its average height is 15-45cm while in older plants the stems become woody. 

This plant loves and needs plenty of light to grow, if light is adequate its leaves willdevelop a beautiful reddish outline. During summer do not allow direct sunlight because its leaves who contain lots of water will get sun-burned. Direct sunlight from fall till early spring will not harm your plant.

Provide plenty of water when the soil seems dry to the touch but do not overwater because the roots will rot. If you have the time, let the water sit for a while before watering so that it will get the temperature of the environment. Kalanchoes can stand dry conditions but do not let them dry out completely because it will greatly compromise its growth. The plant will need some time to get back into shape and avoid wetting the leaves when watering.

Kalanchoes are usually bought or given as a gift with flowers. So, when the flowers start to die back, cut them off and let the plant rest. After deadheading, you should reduce watering as the plant will need less water during this resting period. Soon you will notice new buds and your plant will bloom again. This change in blooming and resting cycles will go on throughout the year irrelevant to seasons.

You should however keep in mind that blooming of the plant is related to how much light the plant is allowed to have. Several hours in darkness will enhance flower production. In other words, if you keep the light (even artificial light) to 8-10 hours per day or less, you will help the plant produce new buds. Following bud formation you can bring the plant back to regular lighting.

Anyway, plenty of light will enhance overall growth but will reduce blooming. Kalanchoes tend to bloom more from fall till early spring the reason being that days are shorter during these months.

Kalanchoe in flower need only very little fertilizer. Generally the plants should have a good supply when you buy them in the store, so you should not need to worry for the first few months. If you want to keep your Kalanchoe past the first flower, start fertilizing only when you see new growth on the plant. Use standard pot plant fertilizer (like 20-8-20) once every second week at 1/4 to 1/2 of the recommended rate

Kalanchoes are resistant to disease and insects but if kept outdoors, could eventually be affected by aphids, scale, spider mites and nematodes. Common symptoms include apart from insects themselves on the crossing of the stems or the undersides of leaves, the presence of honeydew on leaves, creased faded leaves and webs, or leaves that look torn or bitten. Prefer non-toxic treatments because kalanchoes are very sensitive to certain ingredients used largely in insecticides widely used. If you decide to buy a chemical insecticide do tell the nursery that you are planning to use it on a kalanchoe plant.

Reference : Kalanchoe blossfeldiana

Amaryllis : Basic Care

One of the largest and most reliable indoor flowering bulbs, Hollandia’s amaryllis will chase away winter gray with hot colors and enormous blooms. Children and adults delight in watching the sturdy stalks rocket to 30 or so inches, sometimes even blooming in just 21 days.

Amaryllis

About Your Bulbs

Hollandia selects top-grade amaryllis bulbs from the Netherlands and South Africa that are up to 36 centimeters wide to ensure strong and spectacular results. In this case, bigger is better because larger bulbs produce more flower scapes. Customers can chose from the amaryllis already started by our greenhouse staff or buy the bulbs and pot them up at home. Amaryllis can be planted from October until April and by staggering the planting time, flowering can extend well into the spring.

Planting and Growing Guide

Start with a clay or ceramic pot that is about two-inches wider in diameter than the bulb and at least as deep. A heavy pot (with a drainage hole) is needed so the plant does not topple over. At the bottom of the pot, put down a layer of gravel and then fill with a good potting mix. The bulb (pointed end up) should be halfway immersed in the soil. Water the bulb thoroughly after planting and put in a cool but sunny location. Amaryllis likes temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees. Water only when dry and feed twice a week with a liquid fertilizer. Buds should emerge in six to ten weeks. Stalks sometimes require staking, but if the pot is rotated regularly the plant should not lean too heavily in one direction. Flowers will last longer if the plant is removed from direct sunlight.

Aftercare

Amaryllis, if properly cared for, can be enjoyed for years. When flowers fade, cut them off but keep the leaves. Put the plant in a sunny window, water when dry, and feed with a slow-release fertilizer like Osmocote. Around July reduce watering to trigger dormancy. By late summer, cut off the yellow leaves and allow the pot to completely dry out. Store the pot in a cool dry room and do not water for two months. To wake it up, just repot the bulb, put in a sunny window and start watering again.

Forcing Amaryllis in Water

Start with one of Hollandia’s jars for forcing. They are both beautiful and functional. Fill the lower portion with water and set the bulb in the jar, adjusting the water level so it just touches the base of the bulb. Check daily and maintain the water level. Change the water completely when it gets cloudy. Set the bulb in a sunny and warm area and rotate occasionally to keep foliage from leaning in one direction. When buds start to color move the jar to a cooler location. Flowers will last longer there. To prevent the blooms from toppling, place three pieces of florist clay around the jar and press against both the sides of the bulb and the jar. Make sure the edges of the jar are dry so the clay will hold. Bulbs forced in water use most of their stored energy and will probably not rebloom so discard when done.

Azalea: Basic Care

Azaleas, called “The Royalty of Flowers” are of the Rhododendron family., a subspecies known as Tsutsusi, native to Japan. In East Texas and further east there is another subspecies called Pentanthera, the deciduous or wild native azalea. These are ly found in the acid soils of forests, although some nurseries have begun to stock them for sale. The Pentanthera azalea has a fragrance and a wider range of colors than the Tsutsusi.

Pink Azalea

Azaleas are not difficult to grow, even though they have earned the reputation as such. They fare better if a little planning goes into the planting. Azaleas should be planted in a semi shady spot, neither full sun nor dense shade. The filtered sun under pine trees is an ideal spot. Azaleas bloom more in bright light, and some varieties can stand more sun than others.

Planting azaleas in a raised bed helps them to thrive because they do not like “wet feet”. They should not be planted deeply. Spread out the root ball in a slightly indented spot in your prepared bed and pull the soil up over the root ball. Never plant lower in the ground than the plant has been placed in the pot. Water immediately after planting. Mulch the entire bed with pine straw, rotted pine bark or shredded oak leaves, about 1 inch deep around plant and 2-3 inches deep between the plants. If oak leaves are used, the mulch should be deeper. There are other mulches that can be used as long as they decompose quickly. Mulching controls weed, holds in moisture and helps lower soil temperature.

After azaleas are established, they do not require as much water as when they are first planted. Azaleas should be watered during the drier part of the summer. A soaker hose placed in the bed when the azaleas are planted is ideal. Azaleas will start to look a little wilted when they are very thirsty, however they will wilt before the ground dries out completely, warning you to give them water.

Azaleas demand a slightly acidic soil and they will die in alkaline soil. The ideal pH 4 to 5.5. It is important to take a soil sample and have the pH tested. If it is too alkaline your soil pH can be lowered by adding ammonium sulphate (not aluminum sulphate) to the soil. Never scratch around roots of azaleas, because their shallow roots may be damaged. Decomposed mulch can also lower the pH in your soil. Another good reason to mulch! After azaleas are established you may not need to fertilize heavily. I have found using water-soluble azalea fertilizer in a hose-end sprayer right after blooming works well. It gives them just enough “ boot” to get through the summer. Do not fertilize later than July, because it will stimulate new growth that will freeze more easily. If leaves on your plants start to turn yellow give them a dose of chelated iron. Use your hose-end sprayer with the recommended amount of liquid and spray foliage. They will green up in no time. This is a temporary solution however, so you may need to work on your soil pH. Yellow leaves also indicate an alkaline soil.

Larger azalea plants may start to look leggy. If you choose, you may prune them. You should do the pruning directly after spring bloom and never after July 1. They set buds for the next spring starting in July, and pruning later than this date will remove the next spring’s bloom. If your plant needs a lot of pruning, it is best to do some this year and complete the pruning next spring. Too much cutting back may shock the plant.

Azalea pest are not numerous. There are a few, such as lacewing, spider mites, and some foliar feeders. These can be controlled with acephate (Orthene) or Malathion. Almost all diseases are fungus related and can be alleviated with a fungicide.

Green Lacewing

Azaleas are often planted in spring when they are blooming, but fall planting allows them to be established during the winter rains. Nurseries sometime have them on sale in the fall. Give azaleas a little TLC and they will give you enjoyment of beauty for many years.

Reference : Azalea Basic Care