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| Adenium Obesum |
TEMPERATURE:
In their native habitat, Adeniums are not subject to freezing temperatures.
Here in the arid southwest we regularly experience sub-freezing temperatures.
(Tucson averages twelve nights below 32°F.) This is a major consideration in
growing Adeniums. They must not be allowed to freeze! Most often this is simply
a matter of moving the container to a protected location. If possible it is
desirable that the plant have good light throughout the winter, such as that
available through a sliding glass door, just inside the house from the patio.
The further into the house the plant is, the less light available to it. If
overwintered inside, unless it receives very bright light, an Adenium should be
allowed to go dormant. If home nighttime temperatures stay above 55°F, dormancy
may need to be forced by withholding all water until the leaves drop. If indoor
night temperatures are too high (70°F) the plant may try to grow. This is an
undesirable situation causing weak, etiolated (thin, light-seeking) growth and
an alternative overwintering area should be found. If a plant does experience
this type of growth, it is best to prune it off after being moved outdoors in
the spring.
Adeniums
can be overwintered outdoors if kept in places that are absolutely frost free
and dry. Nighttime temperatures around Tucson (and Phoenix) vary, but generally
most homes have a frost free area outside against a wall, under cover of a
solid roof, and even better, on the south side of the home, under a porch roof.
Under any circumstance, outside Adeniums should be completely dry (both from
rain and watering) at temperatures under 50°F. If outside temperatures are expected
to drop to the twenties, even plants under a roof should be moved or covered.
The best covering consists of at least two layers with the outer one being
plastic, simply draped or suspended over the plant. Some very good single layer
frost protection cloths are now commercially available. When considering low
winter temperatures, it is important to understand your home’s specific
conditions. Sites around town can vary by ten degrees or more and locations
outside the house are equally variable. If you are unsure of outside low
temperatures it would be safest to overwinter your plant indoors. When an
Adenium is subjected to freezing, the stems will die back to a greater and
greater diameter with increasingly lower temperatures until the plant is
killed. If the stems are frozen, they should be pruned back to that point
before or just after growth resumes in the spring. If left unpruned, this dead
plant material can start rotting that could spread to and kill the rest of the
plant.
GROWTH
and FLOWERING: Adeniums are naturally slow growing. A great deal of this
slowness can be attributed to minimal water. But it is this very lack of water
that makes for some of the most interesting growth forms of the plants. In
cultivation a balance can be achieved that will promote faster growth and
maintain desirable ‘natural bonsai’ character. In the nursery under ideal
conditions, the fastest growth rate is usually achieved. Under most home
conditions something less would be expected. But fast growth, or in some cases
any growth at all, is not necessarily desirable. Specimen size plants or plants
in decorative containers are usually desirable to keep in their present
situation for long periods of time. In this case, watering and especially
fertilizing should be kept to a minimum, letting the soil stay dry longer and
fertilizing only once every two months during the growing season.
Flowering is
generally expected to start in late winter or early spring, often before the
plant even leafs out. It will often continue, sometimes with a stop during the
hottest part of our pre-summer (mid-May through June), into fall. Some
individuals will flower only in the fall, but if kept warm enough and well
lighted, some (typically the hybrids) will flower virtually year round. The
colors range from white to pale pink to solid, bright red. Some are bi-colored
with only a red edge and white center, but almost all (excluding the solid reds
and pinks) have a white throat. The flower size on different individuals will
vary from one and one half to four or more inches in diameter. Most of the
plants available today have been selected for superior flower color and size.
The flowers are moth pollinated and although the specific moth that pollinates
Adenium does not occur here, occasionally pollination and fruit set does
happen. For breeding purposes, these plants are hand pollinated.
SOIL
and POTTING: The basic characteristic of potting soil for Adeniums is that it
be well drained. This means that water should drain through the soil in a
matter of seconds after being applied. A good potting mix with the addition of
an equal part of pumice or clean, small gravel (preferably granite) will work
well. Good commercial ‘cactus’ mixes are available. There are many recipes for
soil and every grower will use a different one. It is a good idea to find one
that you and your plants like and stick with it as your cultural habits
(watering and fertilizing) are somewhat dependent on the soil mix used.
Adeniums
will tolerate being pot bound without ill effects. They can continue to grow
roots to the point of distorting plastic pots and even breaking clay or
stoneware pots. Repotting Adeniums should be done only during the growing
season and not late in that season. When repotting is desired, it is usually a
simple matter of putting the plant, with its rootball intact, into a larger pot
and filling in with the soil mix, making sure not to bury the plant deeper than
it was. Since these plants usually have a large root/stem just below the soil
line, some of this can be exposed by removing a layer of soil and filling in
beneath the plant to raise it up. Removing the old pot can sometimes be a
problem and occasionally a hammer may be needed to break apart the old pot.
Adeniums can be watered within a day or two of repotting.
PESTS
and DISEASES: In cultivation, Adeniums are rarely subject to diseases, but are
occasionally hosts for one of three insect pests. Mealy bugs, aphids and spider
mites can all inflict damage on these plants. Although usually not serious,
these pests can cause distorted growth and ruin flowers and flower buds.
Outdoor growing (plants love good air movement) in most cases will prevent
these problems, but occasionally an infestation will occur. For spider mites
and aphids a jet of water aimed to physically dislodge the pests will often
suffice. This treatment may need to be repeated several times for complete
control. If the mealy bugs are not overwhelming, a cotton swab dipped in
alcohol will kill all of them that it touches. This should also be repeated for
several days. There are numerous commercial preparations available for these
insects, but it is best to avoid their use if possible because of the
possibility of harm both to your plant (phytotoxicity, time of day of
application, dilution rates) and you.
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| Mealy bugs |
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| Aphids |
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| Spider Mites |
Reference : Adenium Basic Care
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